What they don't tell you about surfing..
It really hurts your feet. Well, perhaps I should clarify: when the water is really, really cold and there are a lot of big rocks, surfing really hurts your feet. I became intimately acquainted to one large rock and many other little ones today. It was my first surfing class. It was really fun. I am exhausted and reminded that despite my valiant efforts, I am not athletic. So far body surfing and riding in on my belly are my favorite things. My goal for the next few weeks: to stand up. Smaller goals: Command the board. Right now I feel really small and board feels really big. I also want to do a turtle roll and invest in some wet suit booties. But I have more experience surfing today than I did yesterday and that is always a good reason for celebration.
1 Comments:
Well, even if you body surf for the duration of the lessons, atleast you are in a location where it is warm enough to do said activities. I write this from the inside of the Surgical Intensive Care Unit, looking out the window, where the snow is coming down...hard.
I guess we should each enjoy where we're at in life, right? :)
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home